Majorca- Beginner’s guide to climbing in the jewel of Balearics

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Majorca

Majorca, Minorca, Ibiza and Formentera –  a group of four Spanish islands in the western Mediterranean sea are each known for their distinct character, stunning beaches, great food and particularly as party destinations. Majorca- the largest of four is specially known as a holiday hotspot for it’s resort-spangled coastline. However, there is a lot more that the island has to offer- from almond grooves, lush green coastal towns, delicious food, and amazing local wines to some incredible rock climbing. There are plenty of single-pitch Sport climbing routes throughout the island while east coast is popular for deep water soloing (made popular by Chris Sharma for his projects such as Es Pontas and Alasha).

I picked up Bouldering an year ago and Sport Climbing very recently (few months). As such, I would consider myself a beginner to the sport but absolutely in love with it. Read on if you are new to the sport like me and are looking for some adventure in this Mediterranean paradise!

Single-pitch sport climbing: Overview of the climbing routes

There are plenty of easy routes around both Pollenca (Northwest Majorca) and Valldemossa (Southwest). I am listing some crags below which are suitable for beginners with plenty of routes at all difficulty levels. I climbed at both S’estret and La Creveta (mostly 5a’s) -the routes were thoroughly enjoyable, challenging and the climbs were rewarded with spectacular views.

Overview of crags:

No Crag Type of Climbing Total Routes Number of Routes in Grade Range
Up to 4 + 5 to 6a+ 6b to 7a 7a+ and up
1 S’estret Sport 123 6 29 45 43
2 Sa Gubia Sport 138 6 38 58 36
3 La Creveta Sport 43 5 12 23 3
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S’estret

Unless you are climbing with friends who are experienced, I will highly recommend going with a climbing school/guide. While the routes are well bolted, you may not be comfortable leading  where bolts are at a wider distance. Dhruv and I took two days of lessons with Rock and Ride Majorca and our instructor Justin was awesome. He not only walked us through the basics of sport leading, he also helped us with the climbing technique and showed some beautiful routes at S’estret which he had bolted himself.

 

Cape Formentor/La Crevata

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Cape Formentor

The most scenic climbing areas are in northwest Mallroca near Cape Formentor (which is an easy 15 mins drive from Pollenca). We particularly enjoyed climbing at La Crevata. Just the half an hour hike to get to the crag made it worth- while the trail is unpaved and requires scrambling in certain sections, its fairly easy and absolutely delightful- just make sure you wear good shoes and full length pants/shirt as a fair bit of walk is through the bushes. Moreover, we stayed in a beautiful airbnb in Pollenca and the climbing days were followed with  grilling, clementines from the backyard orchards and amazing meals at local restaurants. We particularly enjoyed eating at Can Curassa for the delicious food , beautiful Mediterranean decor and their heartwarming hospitality.

Cala Sa Nau- Deep water soloing

Some of us also tried deep water soloing (DWS) along the east side of the island while I just enjoyed chilling at the beach and taking a dip in the beautiful waters here. There is also a nice beach bar here with a good assortment of tapas as well as sum easy DWS routes-highly recommend this spot if you want to try DWSing.

While the climbing was great, Majorca will always be memorable for many more reasons including the awesome time we had with our friends there. We were there in late October which is shoulder season for tourism, so we were delighted to have the places mostly to ourselves. I loved going around Palma for it’s chilled-out vibe,  amazing restaurants, eclectic boutiques and a beautiful cathedral. At the same time, Majorca has many charming coastal towns where you can experience the local culture and and devour fresh seafood. Soller was my favorite- a traditional Majorcan town embraced with mountains, I had one my favorite meals in Majorca here at Can Gata.

The postcard pretty landscapes of this Mediterranean jewel are engraved into my memory and I can’t wait to go back. Until next time, Spain!

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